Hanfu
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There is confusion as to the commonly known appearance of Hanfu and the identity of Hanbok in men's clothing.[1] | |
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Hanfu from the Qing Dynasty. (Left) On the left is a Han Chinese woman wearing Hanfu , and on the right is a Manchurian woman wearing Qizhuang , a traditional Manchurian costume .[2] |
1. outline2. origin of name3. Is Hanfu a traditional dress in modern China?4. Relationship between Hanfu and Hobok and Hanbok
4.1. before you go in4.2. Ohja (Jeogori)4.3. my chest4.4. curvature4.5. Yoo-kun4.6. cut, spread, direct iron
5. Remains of Hanfu in modern times5.1. In the case of Hakka people
6. Extra 1: Hobok7. Extra 2: What is the perception of the time of the Ming Dynasty?7.1. Is Hanbok originating in the Ming Dynasty?
8. Hanfu by era8.1. Shang/Zhou Era8.2. Spring and Autumn Warring States Period8.3. Qin Dynasty , Han Dynasty8.4. Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties period8.5. tang8.6. song8.7. Ming Dynasty8.8. Qing Dynasty
9. type9.1. female hanfu9.2. male hanfu
10. Awareness and Hanfu trends within modern China11. etc12. look around1. outline
identity : Han | Simplified Chinese : 汉服 | Hanfu |
another designation | 漢裝 / 汉装 | 華服 / 华服 |
Traditional clothing (clothing) of China , especially the Han Chinese .
Originally, the word 'Hanfu' was just a new word meaning clothing ceremony during the Han Dynasty. However, while Korea 's hanbok and Japan 's kimono are widely known to the outside world and their names are actively promoted as national prestige, there is no specific word to refer to Chinese clothing, so Chinese clothing was not properly promoted and awareness was low compared to hanbok and kimono. Again, the stereotype was the cheongsam , a traditional Manchurian clothing .
After the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949, attempts were made to restore Hanfu before the Manchurian rule, but the original form of Hanfu had already disappeared due to the long-term rule of the Manchurians, and the Chinese ended up creating a completely new Hanfu rather than restoring it, referring to previous murals and paintings. Qipao was originally known as a traditional Chinese costume throughout the world , and there is a perception overseas that Hanfu has been recreated in modern times.
Adding to this, China's Sino-Chinese ideology and the Korean-Chinese sentiment, there was a movement to 'revive the traditional culture of the Han Chinese', and Chinese netizens began to use the meaning of Hanfu as Han Chinese traditional clothing , and furthermore, as Chinese traditional clothing, as a word to refer to all traditional clothing in China.[3]
There are two thousand years ago in the Han Dynasty record, so there are some Han Chinese who claim that Hanfu is not a new word, but this is a sophistication that does not consider the history and nature of language. The record of the record was literally referred to as 'the clothes worn by the Korean people' at that time, and it was an early word of the Han Dynasty's 'general clothes', but recently used by Chinese people漢服(汉服)The modern Han Chineseists are not seen as the same vocabulary because they made a word, saying, 'Let's revive the Han Chinese.' In other words, 2000 years ago, 漢 服 and modern 漢 服 are different meanings, and there is no continuity and historicality of language.
Before this word came out, the clothing before the cheongsam was called simply by adding the character 服 to the name of the era . The Tang Dynasty clothing was called Tang Pu (唐服), and the Ming Dynasty clothing was called Ming Pu (明服). In a word, all clothes belonging to Hanfu are real clothes, but it is only in modern times that they are collectively referred to as 'Hanfu'.
In Korean Sino-Korean pronunciation, both are 'Hanbok' like traditional Korean clothing, but since the Sino-Korean characters are different,漢服and韓服, they are usually referred to as 'Hanfu' according to the standard Chinese pronunciation. This is more natural because traditional clothing of other countries is usually called and written according to the pronunciation of that country. It's the same as Koreans calling Japanese traditional clothing ' Kimono ' instead of 'Chakmul' (着物), which is its Sino-Korean pronunciation , and calling Manchu traditional clothing ' Qipao ' instead of 'Gipo' (旗袍).
Cheongsam , now widely known as Chinese traditional clothing , is a attire that originated from the traditional attire of the Manchurian people introduced after the Qing Dynasty , and is very different from the previous attire of the Han Chinese . In other words, all clothing from the Chinese era other than the cheongsam can be called Hanfu. In fact, as mentioned above, the term Hanfu is a term artificially created in modern times by the private sector, including the Chinese Internet, and there is a significant contradiction in excluding only qipao from the classification of Hanfu. Although there may be similarities as they have closely influenced each other for a long time, it is also contradictory to claim that all clothing that is even slightly similar to Korean , Japanese , Vietnamese , Uyghur , etc. clothing is Hanfu and expose it to the media. Details will be described later.
China's Hanfu (漢服) originally did not have pants for both men and women , but pants were introduced by importing the northern hanbok, which is also the basis of Korea's Hanbok (Hanbok) . Because East Asia is culturally very close, they often display each other's clothing styles. Korea used Danryeong as its official uniform under the influence of the Tang Dynasty until the Joseon Dynasty , and China used it as an official uniform until the Ming Dynasty. Before the Hongchi Festival, Goryeo Yang was popular. In particular, Chinese Hanfu has continued to change under the influence of immigrants. Since the Tang and Sui Dynasties were countries founded by the Han and Xianbei tribes , their clothing showed a fusion of Xianbei and Han Chinese clothing. The Ming Dynasty had Mongolian and Goryeo styles until the Hongchi Emperor , and after the Hongchi Emperor , Hanfu, a mixture of Song Dynasty clothing and Mongolian styles, was popular.
Korea's hanbok originally had narrow sleeves, following the characteristics of Hobok , a northern attire. Later, the sleeves became wider, but after the Joseon Dynasty, the sleeves became narrow again. China's Hanfu was also influenced by the Hubok, which originated from the clothing of northern nomadic peoples , and accepted Baji , a northern Hubok style, as a part of Hanfu since the Spring and Autumn Warring States Period . Danryeong , the protective clothing worn mainly by Mongolian nomads such as the Khitan and Xianbei tribes , was also adopted from the Sui and Tang periods.[4]
It originally evolved from a full-length robe that was a piece for top and bottom , and like Japanese kimono , it has the characteristic of being sewn without trimming. To put it more simply, it is made using fabric as is, rather than cutting each part into pieces and joining them together. Since it is only sewn using the width of the fabric without cutting, it is not made to fit each body part perfectly. In other words, it's somewhat like free size.
As mentioned above, China has exchanged so much influence with the surrounding foreign nations that even in the same era, the clothing is very different. For example, there are many different types of clothing, such as formal attire like formal attire, official attire like danryeong , and everyday attire, so only a very small number of the clothes described in this document are included. It is nothing more than
Detailed clothing can be viewed by clicking the "Table of Contents" in the related link and checking the clothing of kings and nobles. First of all, it is clothing from the Goryeo Dynasty, but the upper class adopted Chinese clothing, so it is good to refer to. You can refer to job uniform, cotton uniform, district uniform, chiljang uniform, and official uniform. Kindly, there is a detailed source for the clothing, so it is possible to confirm which era it is from China. In fact, many of the clothes in this link have been restored based on Chinese clothing.
Originally, the word 'Hanfu' was just a new word meaning clothing ceremony during the Han Dynasty. However, while Korea 's hanbok and Japan 's kimono are widely known to the outside world and their names are actively promoted as national prestige, there is no specific word to refer to Chinese clothing, so Chinese clothing was not properly promoted and awareness was low compared to hanbok and kimono. Again, the stereotype was the cheongsam , a traditional Manchurian clothing .
After the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949, attempts were made to restore Hanfu before the Manchurian rule, but the original form of Hanfu had already disappeared due to the long-term rule of the Manchurians, and the Chinese ended up creating a completely new Hanfu rather than restoring it, referring to previous murals and paintings. Qipao was originally known as a traditional Chinese costume throughout the world , and there is a perception overseas that Hanfu has been recreated in modern times.
Adding to this, China's Sino-Chinese ideology and the Korean-Chinese sentiment, there was a movement to 'revive the traditional culture of the Han Chinese', and Chinese netizens began to use the meaning of Hanfu as Han Chinese traditional clothing , and furthermore, as Chinese traditional clothing, as a word to refer to all traditional clothing in China.[3]
There are two thousand years ago in the Han Dynasty record, so there are some Han Chinese who claim that Hanfu is not a new word, but this is a sophistication that does not consider the history and nature of language. The record of the record was literally referred to as 'the clothes worn by the Korean people' at that time, and it was an early word of the Han Dynasty's 'general clothes', but recently used by Chinese people漢服(汉服)The modern Han Chineseists are not seen as the same vocabulary because they made a word, saying, 'Let's revive the Han Chinese.' In other words, 2000 years ago, 漢 服 and modern 漢 服 are different meanings, and there is no continuity and historicality of language.
Before this word came out, the clothing before the cheongsam was called simply by adding the character 服 to the name of the era . The Tang Dynasty clothing was called Tang Pu (唐服), and the Ming Dynasty clothing was called Ming Pu (明服). In a word, all clothes belonging to Hanfu are real clothes, but it is only in modern times that they are collectively referred to as 'Hanfu'.
In Korean Sino-Korean pronunciation, both are 'Hanbok' like traditional Korean clothing, but since the Sino-Korean characters are different,漢服and韓服, they are usually referred to as 'Hanfu' according to the standard Chinese pronunciation. This is more natural because traditional clothing of other countries is usually called and written according to the pronunciation of that country. It's the same as Koreans calling Japanese traditional clothing ' Kimono ' instead of 'Chakmul' (着物), which is its Sino-Korean pronunciation , and calling Manchu traditional clothing ' Qipao ' instead of 'Gipo' (旗袍).
Cheongsam , now widely known as Chinese traditional clothing , is a attire that originated from the traditional attire of the Manchurian people introduced after the Qing Dynasty , and is very different from the previous attire of the Han Chinese . In other words, all clothing from the Chinese era other than the cheongsam can be called Hanfu. In fact, as mentioned above, the term Hanfu is a term artificially created in modern times by the private sector, including the Chinese Internet, and there is a significant contradiction in excluding only qipao from the classification of Hanfu. Although there may be similarities as they have closely influenced each other for a long time, it is also contradictory to claim that all clothing that is even slightly similar to Korean , Japanese , Vietnamese , Uyghur , etc. clothing is Hanfu and expose it to the media. Details will be described later.
China's Hanfu (漢服) originally did not have pants for both men and women , but pants were introduced by importing the northern hanbok, which is also the basis of Korea's Hanbok (Hanbok) . Because East Asia is culturally very close, they often display each other's clothing styles. Korea used Danryeong as its official uniform under the influence of the Tang Dynasty until the Joseon Dynasty , and China used it as an official uniform until the Ming Dynasty. Before the Hongchi Festival, Goryeo Yang was popular. In particular, Chinese Hanfu has continued to change under the influence of immigrants. Since the Tang and Sui Dynasties were countries founded by the Han and Xianbei tribes , their clothing showed a fusion of Xianbei and Han Chinese clothing. The Ming Dynasty had Mongolian and Goryeo styles until the Hongchi Emperor , and after the Hongchi Emperor , Hanfu, a mixture of Song Dynasty clothing and Mongolian styles, was popular.
Korea's hanbok originally had narrow sleeves, following the characteristics of Hobok , a northern attire. Later, the sleeves became wider, but after the Joseon Dynasty, the sleeves became narrow again. China's Hanfu was also influenced by the Hubok, which originated from the clothing of northern nomadic peoples , and accepted Baji , a northern Hubok style, as a part of Hanfu since the Spring and Autumn Warring States Period . Danryeong , the protective clothing worn mainly by Mongolian nomads such as the Khitan and Xianbei tribes , was also adopted from the Sui and Tang periods.[4]
It originally evolved from a full-length robe that was a piece for top and bottom , and like Japanese kimono , it has the characteristic of being sewn without trimming. To put it more simply, it is made using fabric as is, rather than cutting each part into pieces and joining them together. Since it is only sewn using the width of the fabric without cutting, it is not made to fit each body part perfectly. In other words, it's somewhat like free size.
As mentioned above, China has exchanged so much influence with the surrounding foreign nations that even in the same era, the clothing is very different. For example, there are many different types of clothing, such as formal attire like formal attire, official attire like danryeong , and everyday attire, so only a very small number of the clothes described in this document are included. It is nothing more than
Detailed clothing can be viewed by clicking the "Table of Contents" in the related link and checking the clothing of kings and nobles. First of all, it is clothing from the Goryeo Dynasty, but the upper class adopted Chinese clothing, so it is good to refer to. You can refer to job uniform, cotton uniform, district uniform, chiljang uniform, and official uniform. Kindly, there is a detailed source for the clothing, so it is possible to confirm which era it is from China. In fact, many of the clothes in this link have been restored based on Chinese clothing.
2. origin of name
In conclusion, the name Hanpu is a new word in the 21st century .
Hanfu is a term that was settled as a repulsive sentiment of the Manchurian ( Qing Dynasty ) culture, including the cheongsils found in Chinese nationalists . Those who lead the Hanfu revival movement are defined as ' all the clothes that the Han Chinese have been worn from the Queen's Oje period to the Qing Dynasty', but the term Hanpu is so ambiguous that justice is controversial in Chinese doubles. JoongAng Ilbo -China to take off the cheongsa and wear Hanfu… According to the article that Hanfi's resurrection , Hanfu is a sensitive topic, and Beijing's doubles expert, who demanded anonymity, said, "Hanfu is a new word."
It is estimated that the word Hanfu became established in the 2000s . At the 2001 APEC Summit in Shanghai, China, leaders of various countries were photographed wearing cheongsam, but some Chinese people protested and coined the word 'Hanfu'. According to the article , Wang Letian, a worker from Zhengzhou, in 2003. The Hanfu revival movement began when it was reported that people walked the streets wearing homemade Hanfu. In 2004, singer-songwriter Sun Yi composed the theme song for the Hanfu revival movement, 'Zhonghui Handang', and in the process, Hanfu became established . The name Fu did not originate from academic discussion. Therefore, there is a lot of controversy over the definition of Hanfu in the Chinese clothing world, and it is often not recognized as an official term even locally. From its name, it has problems and limitations as it is a term created due to opposition to the Qing Dynasty and Han Chineseism. However, although Chinese fashion scholars are concerned about China's clothing Northeast Project, which has become more serious in the 2020s , they are unable to actively voice their voices on academic definitions of names and classifications because they are watching both the Han Chinese nationalist forces and the Communist Party.
Hanfu is a term that was settled as a repulsive sentiment of the Manchurian ( Qing Dynasty ) culture, including the cheongsils found in Chinese nationalists . Those who lead the Hanfu revival movement are defined as ' all the clothes that the Han Chinese have been worn from the Queen's Oje period to the Qing Dynasty', but the term Hanpu is so ambiguous that justice is controversial in Chinese doubles. JoongAng Ilbo -China to take off the cheongsa and wear Hanfu… According to the article that Hanfi's resurrection , Hanfu is a sensitive topic, and Beijing's doubles expert, who demanded anonymity, said, "Hanfu is a new word."
It is estimated that the word Hanfu became established in the 2000s . At the 2001 APEC Summit in Shanghai, China, leaders of various countries were photographed wearing cheongsam, but some Chinese people protested and coined the word 'Hanfu'. According to the article , Wang Letian, a worker from Zhengzhou, in 2003. The Hanfu revival movement began when it was reported that people walked the streets wearing homemade Hanfu. In 2004, singer-songwriter Sun Yi composed the theme song for the Hanfu revival movement, 'Zhonghui Handang', and in the process, Hanfu became established . The name Fu did not originate from academic discussion. Therefore, there is a lot of controversy over the definition of Hanfu in the Chinese clothing world, and it is often not recognized as an official term even locally. From its name, it has problems and limitations as it is a term created due to opposition to the Qing Dynasty and Han Chineseism. However, although Chinese fashion scholars are concerned about China's clothing Northeast Project, which has become more serious in the 2020s , they are unable to actively voice their voices on academic definitions of names and classifications because they are watching both the Han Chinese nationalist forces and the Communist Party.
中国青年政治学院教授张跣认为现代汉服运动倡导者所宣传的汉服概念不存在于中国传统文化和现代汉语中，他认为汉服运动倡导者为宣扬自己的思想和观念，总结了明代以前汉族服饰传统而形成的一个假定了“汉服”在发展过程中的“血统”的纯正性的“类概念” |
Zhang Xian, a professor of Chinese youth politics, acknowledged that the Hanfu concept promoted by modern Hanfu movement proponents does not exist in Chinese traditional culture or modern Chinese language, and he believed that Hanfu movement proponents used Han Chinese clothing from before the Ming Dynasty to spread their ideas and concepts. It was recognized as a similar concept that assumed lineage purity during the development process of Hanfu, which was formed by summarizing traditions. |
Kevin Carrico. Make the Han Great Again. University of California Press. [2019-05-20].Kevin Carrico, A State of Warring Styles （页面存档备份，存于互联网档案馆）, " In my time spent with movement participants, however, I found that despite this focus upon the past, the movement was primarily a product of the present and its contradictions, of which Han Clothing was at once a symptom and an attempted cure." |
However, during my time participating in the Hanfu movement, despite its focus on the past, it was a product of the recent and contradictory to the present. In other words, Hanfu was a hastily prepared treatment (an attempted cure for immediate symptoms). |
There is also criticism that nationalism centered on abandoning the Qing Dynasty and Manchu culture and reviving Han culture instead is solidifying. According to the article linked above, Professor Zhang Xian of the Youth Politics Academy said, “The Hanfu movement seeks to show off the purity and superiority of the Han people.” He added, “The Hanfu movement is not a ‘return of national consciousness,’ but a ‘deterioration of national consciousness.’ He argued that it is not ‘cultural awareness’ but ‘historical regression,’” and that the current Constitution of the People’s Republic of China “promotes great nationalism, especially Korean nationalism , during the struggle to maintain and protect national unity. ” Since the preamble stipulates that “I oppose it,” some are pointing out that it is contrary to this. Therefore, while the Chinese Communist Party is distorting history by claiming that Hanbok belongs to China, the Hanfu Revival Movement forces, ironically, are neglecting it to some extent because they share the same goal .
In fact, not only the Qing Dynasty, but also the Ming Dynasty, Song Dynasty, and Tang Dynasty also had a lot of influence from foreign ethnic groups, so the perfect Han Chinese clothing can be said to be the Han Dynasty , and even the Three Kingdoms period at long last.[5] After the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Hanfu continued to be influenced by foreign peoples, and Hanfu was also influenced by the clothing of surrounding ethnic groups. Representatively, Hanfu in the early Ming Dynasty came to resemble Hanbok due to the Goryeo Yang . During the Qing Dynasty , under the influence of the Manchurian people, Hanfu changed to the point where it resembled a cheongsam, and extreme nationalists even excluded the Qing Dynasty Hanfu from their traditional clothing.
3. Is Hanfu a traditional dress in modern China?
History of Pyapya Kim - Is Hanbok really Chinese clothes? / The reality of Chinese Hanfu |
To conclude, the so-called "Hanfu" is the historical heritage of the Han people, and since Hanfu of the Qing Dynasty exists, only that Hanfu can be said to be traditional clothing. However, since Hanfu before that was discontinued, it is a historical heritage, but it is absurd to call it traditional clothing. In the first place, before the Xi Jinping era, there were so many problems that the Chinese Communist Party directly suppressed the traditional clothing of Hanfu . Politically, the fact that it was a communist system that rejected nationalism may have been the reason.[6] This is because, as will be described later, there were numerous external problems.
East Asia It is an undeniable fact that clothing in the Chinese character culture area was, of course, partly influenced by the Central Plains. In particular, the clothes worn in the palace or at official occasions, especially official uniforms and ceremonial robes, were greatly influenced by the Jungwon.
Here, the Central Plains do not refer to the Han Chinese or the people of the People's Republic of China . At that time, the Central Plains was a place where clothes from various northern or western ethnic groups were mixed and produced like a melting pot, and it was very natural for it to spread to various countries. It is absurd to claim that some netizens in the People's Republic of China stole their culture. All clothes that are components of Hanfu, such as Danryeong , Wujun, Yujun, and Cheollik , are derived from the clothes of foreign ethnic groups such as the White Red or Xianbei people, so they can be considered to be purely Han clothes. It's impossible.
The word tradition means “ a pattern of ideas, customs, behavior, etc. that has already been established in a past era and has been passed down through generations in a group or community .” The moment you use this word, it becomes difficult to consider Hanfu as a tradition. A tradition can only be recognized as a tradition if it has been passed down for at least three generations and has not been interrupted or forgotten in the meantime. A similar concept is also used in UNESCO World Heritage listing. No matter how much they restore the lost Tang Dynasty music, it cannot become a world intangible heritage. Among the World Cultural Heritage sites, Korea's Suwon Hwaseong Fortress , which was restored in modern times, became a World Heritage Site because the restoration basis was scientific and detailed, and the stones used in the construction and the shapes of the machines used were perfectly recorded, making it possible to register them. Even though the relics excavated from the tomb are not the ones that have been worn and kept today, restoring them and wearing them or recreating them does not fit the concept of tradition.
The Hanfu that they are talking about had different forms in different dynasties, and it is unknown how the public wore it and how it was made, and it is simply a piece that was excavated and restored by putting it in a sewing machine, so it does not fit the concept of tradition. There are many controversies among themselves regarding the restoration of Hanfu. In particular, the method of wearing a strap was created by their guesses in modern times. The Chinese method of tying a lace-up string is that they have to guess the lace-up string by looking at old pictures and tie it behind the ear. Koreans have inherited it directly from the previous generation in real life, so even ordinary people can easily do it. It is clear when compared with the tradition of tying.
East Asia It is an undeniable fact that clothing in the Chinese character culture area was, of course, partly influenced by the Central Plains. In particular, the clothes worn in the palace or at official occasions, especially official uniforms and ceremonial robes, were greatly influenced by the Jungwon.
Here, the Central Plains do not refer to the Han Chinese or the people of the People's Republic of China . At that time, the Central Plains was a place where clothes from various northern or western ethnic groups were mixed and produced like a melting pot, and it was very natural for it to spread to various countries. It is absurd to claim that some netizens in the People's Republic of China stole their culture. All clothes that are components of Hanfu, such as Danryeong , Wujun, Yujun, and Cheollik , are derived from the clothes of foreign ethnic groups such as the White Red or Xianbei people, so they can be considered to be purely Han clothes. It's impossible.
The word tradition means “ a pattern of ideas, customs, behavior, etc. that has already been established in a past era and has been passed down through generations in a group or community .” The moment you use this word, it becomes difficult to consider Hanfu as a tradition. A tradition can only be recognized as a tradition if it has been passed down for at least three generations and has not been interrupted or forgotten in the meantime. A similar concept is also used in UNESCO World Heritage listing. No matter how much they restore the lost Tang Dynasty music, it cannot become a world intangible heritage. Among the World Cultural Heritage sites, Korea's Suwon Hwaseong Fortress , which was restored in modern times, became a World Heritage Site because the restoration basis was scientific and detailed, and the stones used in the construction and the shapes of the machines used were perfectly recorded, making it possible to register them. Even though the relics excavated from the tomb are not the ones that have been worn and kept today, restoring them and wearing them or recreating them does not fit the concept of tradition.
The Hanfu that they are talking about had different forms in different dynasties, and it is unknown how the public wore it and how it was made, and it is simply a piece that was excavated and restored by putting it in a sewing machine, so it does not fit the concept of tradition. There are many controversies among themselves regarding the restoration of Hanfu. In particular, the method of wearing a strap was created by their guesses in modern times. The Chinese method of tying a lace-up string is that they have to guess the lace-up string by looking at old pictures and tie it behind the ear. Koreans have inherited it directly from the previous generation in real life, so even ordinary people can easily do it. It is clear when compared with the tradition of tying.
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Traditional clothing of modern Italy |
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The traditional clothing of ancient Sparta , not the traditional clothing of modern Greece | Traditional Greek clothing |
For example, the traditional clothing of modern Italy or Greece is different from the toga of Rome and Greece. In other words, Italy and Greece also excavate ancient relics that had not been worn until modern times, restored what the ancient Romans wore, and do not lie by claiming that this is a traditional culture that has been passed down to modern times. Likewise, even if ancient Egyptian clothing is discovered and worn by modern Egyptians, it cannot become their traditional clothing. In fact, only the galabes worn by Egyptians are currently recognized as traditional clothing.[7]
Then, one may wonder whether the clothing of Goguryeo , Baekje , Silla , and Goryeo are modern Korean traditions. To further explain this, first of all, during the Goryeo Dynasty In the Samguk Sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms) , we did not even know the shapes of Silla's clothing, Goguryeo's clothing, and Baekje's clothing, so we ended up quoting records from Chinese historians. However, in modern times, it has become possible to infer to some extent through archaeological achievements such as cross-analyzing various murals and records. However, it is a big mistake to suddenly restore them in modern times and claim that they are the current traditional clothing of Korea.
The clothes of Goguryeo, Silla, and Baekje are only the ancestors of Hanbok, and the palace clothes and jeolpung worn at the time are nothing more than the clothes of the people at the time and cannot be said to be part of modern Korean traditional culture. They should only be seen as ancestors of Korea's modern traditional culture. As mentioned above, the clothing of this period was discontinued for a long time, and there were times when even the form, let alone how to wear it, was unknown. The current outfit is not certain and is only an inference, so we cannot guarantee that this is 100% correct. Of course, it cannot be denied that there are parts of modern Korean traditional clothing that have inherited their customs, but even though the Silla gold crown and Goguryeo crown at the time are derived from them and there are costumes that have changed or are presumed to have changed, it is problematic to put them aside and suddenly say that the Silla gold crown and Goguryeo crown are traditional clothing that has been continuously worn and used by the public in modern Korea.
The current Hanfu is a modern restored clothing created by ignoring this simple concept of tradition. Although it may be their historical ancestor, it has little relationship with modern Chinese traditions such as cheongsam /changpao or people's clothing . Compared to Hanbok, the Joseon costume, which is commonly referred to as Hanbok by Koreans in modern times , has photos of actual people wearing it during the late Joseon Dynasty and the late Joseon Dynasty , and has become a Korean tradition in name and reality that has not been lost or disconnected from the Japanese colonial period to modern Korea . The clothing of the royal family and noblemen can also be considered traditional Korean clothing because it is inherited by members of the head families of Daedongjongyakwon, Iwangjik Aakbu.
However, the clothes that modern Chinese people wear called Hanfu are products that were made hastily by ordinary people or companies who did not know the sewing techniques of the time and were not experts or craftsmen in fashion studies, using clothes excavated from Mawangdui , a tomb from the Han Dynasty, by just looking at the shape and putting it in a sewing machine. As these clothes have nothing to do with tradition, there is a problem in calling Hanfu a traditional Chinese clothing as they wish. Therefore , it can be said that the only traditional Chinese clothing is the cheongsam and the Hanfu of Han Chinese women that came down from the Qing Dynasty.[8]
Clothes that are distributed in modern times and claimed to be Hanfu are not traditional clothes, but rather restorations or cosplays recreated by adding information from excavations at historic sites to the imagination of the general public. In fact, thanks to these problems, there are quite a few people in China who are against the Hanfu movement, but thanks to China's unique system, they are unable to raise their voices at all.
Clothes that are distributed in modern times and claimed to be Hanfu are not traditional clothes, but rather restorations or cosplays recreated by adding information from excavations at historic sites to the imagination of the general public. In fact, thanks to these problems, there are quite a few people in China who are against the Hanfu movement, but thanks to China's unique system, they are unable to raise their voices at all.
4. Relationship between Hanfu and Hobok and Hanbok
4.1. before you go in
- According to the Chinese Dictionary of Clothing and Clothing, Hanfu has the following meanings.
- Clothing of the Han Chinese during the Liao Dynasty - At that time, the clothing of the Han Chinese during the Liao Dynasty was actually called Hanfu. This is because, according to the Liao government's policy of separating the Khitan people from the Han people, all Han Chinese-related cultures were classified by adding Han to them.
- Han Dynasty clothing - According to the traditional Chinese clothing nomenclature, China is the country name + 服, so it is Hanfu that is closest to the origin.
- Han Chinese clothing - Since there were many people trying to restore the existing Han Chinese culture since the era of the Republic of China, the corresponding meaning was also retained at the time the dictionary was written.
China is not a country that grew independently in isolation, but a country that grew by interacting with various countries and fusing cultures, so Hanfu, the clothing, was also influenced by the surrounding peoples.
新羅之初(Sillajicho) : Early period of Silla
Clothing system : The clothing system is
不可考色(not possible to consider color) : It is impossible to consider color.
至第二十三葉法興王 (Jije 23-Yeop King Beopheung) : During the 23rd King Beopheung’s reign
始定六部人服色尊卑之制(Municipal Government Six Women’s Clothing Costume System) : For the first time, a system of six-color clothing was established.
猶是夷俗(Yusi-i-sok) : However, until then, the customs of Dong-i were maintained.
至眞德在位二年(2nd year of Jijindeok’s reign) : In the 2nd year of King Jindeok’s reign.
金春秋入唐(Kim Chun-chu joins the party) : Kim Chun-chu goes to the party
請襲唐儀(Cheongseupdangui) : Requested to follow the party’s rituals.
太宗皇帝詔可之 (Emperor Taizong Emperor Jojiji) : Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty (ogi. In reality, it is Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty) permitted this.
Medical school was granted simultaneously.
遂還來施行(Suwanlae implementation) : He returned and implemented this,
以夷易華(Lee Yiyeokhwa) : Our customs were changed to Chinese customs.
King Munmu (fourth year of King Munmu’s reign) : In the fourth year of King Munmu’s reign,
又革婦人之服 (Woohyuk Wife Inbok) : We also changed the clothing system for wives.
自此已後 (after own car) : after
Clothing 冠同於中國(China) : Our clothing has become the same as China's.Samguk sagi Silla Bongi
This passage is from Uibokji in the Samguk Sagi when Silla established Bokdu and Banryeongpo as official uniforms. In order to downgrade Hanbok, Korea's traditional clothing , Chinese netizens with extreme nationalist tendencies treat Hanbok as a part of Hanfu using a phrase that appears in the Silla Bongi clothing section of the Samguk Sagi during the Goryeo Dynasty in an attempt to downgrade Hanbok, the traditional clothing of Korea. ) is being distorted as the Hanfu of the Han Chinese, a concept denied by past Chinese historians and records, and even by modern Chinese clothing experts . The papers that refute Chinese nationalists' distortion of Hanfu history, which will be discussed below, are all Chinese papers. In other words, their claims are treated as absurd even in China.
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The contents of the attached data are Osamo, Bannyeongpo Lausanne, and Cotton Shoes . The clothes that appeared after North Korea and were not seen in the previous era , which were not seen in the previous era . Today's clothes are all the hopes . This is an obvious fact that has been proven as an archaeological research and relics. In other words, the midfield was like a big pot, not the only activity space of the Han Chinese. The extreme Han nationalists argue that Hanfu came from the culture of the Han Chinese. But this is not true. Of course, it would be natural, but China has been a country where many cultures coexist, not the extremely closed countries since ancient times.
- It is true that Silla hanbok was influenced by Tangfu, but Silla hanbok is not a descendant of Tangpu, as many people misunderstand. However, the most culturally developed country at that time was the Tang Dynasty, and since the Tang Dynasty was the country that laid the foundation for the culture of the modern Chinese character culture , it was natural for neighboring countries to receive the culture of the Tang Dynasty and modify it to fit their own culture. In fact, Unified Silla imported a large amount of the culture of the Tang Dynasty and used it by modifying it to fit the customs of Silla. And since the Tang Dynasty was a country founded by the Xianbei tribe , the clothing of all countries with Chinese character culture, including China at the time, was ultimately strongly influenced by the Hu clothing .
And the Silla hanbok, which was influenced by Tangfu, was cut off under the influence of Mongolia during the Yuan intervention period , and the current hanbok became more similar to Mongolia 's Del rather than China's Hanfu.[9] , the early Mingfu, which was also influenced by Del and Goryeo Yang , disappeared under the Ming Dynasty, which carried out strong anti-Yuan diplomacy, so there is surprisingly little similarity between the current Hanfu and Hanbok.
- Hanpu is not inherited. Hanfu is a word made in modern times, but the Qing Dynasty, Hanpu Qingu, is also a double style of the Han Chinese that meets the claims of the Hanfu exercise forces. Although it has been so influenced by the Manchuria , even though it has changed greatly from the past of the past, the influence of the cheongsam , there is a form of doubles that meet the Han Chinese. However, Hanpu, who thinks, is very dissatisfied with Hanpu, and most of all, Hanfu is influenced by the Manchu, so many people do not know this because they are ignored by the Chinese Hanfu movement because they are not in line with the thoughts of the current Han Chinese. . Rather, many people see it as a ciphero.[10]
As a side note, the Han Chinese are an ethnic group divided into several branches, and among them, the Hakka , an extremely closed Han Chinese group , have inherited their own Hanfu called Hakka Nansan (客家藍衫), which is currently maintained in Taiwan .
4.2. Ohja (Jeogori)
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Ohja (Jeogori) |
Yeonbok, which will lead to women's welfare in Gudangseo, has been an obscene garment (seolbok) since ancient times, and is called mourning clothes. At that time, Gangnam used galgeon and yujun, but the Northern Dynasty mixed the customs of Yongyi, and in the Northern Qi, long-haired hats, danhwa, hapgo, and oja were used.
Extreme nationalists in China claim that Wugun is pure Hanfu and that Korean jeogori is influenced by Wugun, the Hanfu of the Han people. Regardless of whether Wugun is Hanfu or not, jeogori has nothing to do with Hanfu in the first place. It is a well-established belief that Korea's jeogori was influenced by the Scythian robe, and even Ogundo Chinese ancient records and scholars prove that it is a robe. In fact, as will be explained later, all clothing in East Asia, including Hanfu, was influenced by the Hobok, the clothing of northern nomads. Not only the Korean Peninsula, but also the Ao Dai and Kimono in Vietnam and Japan were also influenced by the Hobok. Of course, Hanfu is also an outfit heavily influenced by Hufu.
Extreme nationalists in China claim that Wugun is pure Hanfu and that Korean jeogori is influenced by Wugun, the Hanfu of the Han people. Regardless of whether Wugun is Hanfu or not, jeogori has nothing to do with Hanfu in the first place. It is a well-established belief that Korea's jeogori was influenced by the Scythian robe, and even Ogundo Chinese ancient records and scholars prove that it is a robe. In fact, as will be explained later, all clothing in East Asia, including Hanfu, was influenced by the Hobok, the clothing of northern nomads. Not only the Korean Peninsula, but also the Ao Dai and Kimono in Vietnam and Japan were also influenced by the Hobok. Of course, Hanfu is also an outfit heavily influenced by Hufu.
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To come to the Book of Wei is auspicious. It seems to have started from Bukje to come to Jeongjin's Seolmun Bride High School. Wuja appeared relatively late compared to Hanfu because it was not the clothes of the ancient Han people, but was influenced by the auspicious blessings after the medieval period of the Five Hus and Six Kingdoms .
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According to Wei Wei, Wu Zi seems to originally belong to the Xianbei tribe. This is a phrase from Gutangshu , and the Chinese character 袄 is a later character. Originally, the Han people did not have such clothing, and the corresponding clothing was made under the influence of the Xianbei tribe.
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The famous article by King Jo Muryeong also records that Wuja came from Hobok. In other words, the jeogori of Hanbok was introduced earlier than China from the Scythians and northern immigrants and appeared in Goguryeo and Silla earlier than the Northern Dynasty of China, so it either went through an independent development process unrelated to Hanfu or was first worn by the Goguryeo people, the ancestors of the Korean people. The possibility that it was introduced into China through the Yan Dynasty cannot be ruled out, so research is needed. Since Hanfu was created through Goryeo Yang in the early Ming Dynasty , there are many cases where it was passed over from the Korean Peninsula to China.
4.3. my chest
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A picture depicting the appearance of Jehyeongyugun |
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Qiheungyujun (齐胸襦裙/齊胸襦裙) is a costume that first appeared in Chinese history during the Tang Dynasty, and is a representative form of Tangfu (Tang Dynasty Hanfu) for women. As it is the clothing of the Tang Dynasty, the country that laid the foundation for modern East Asian culture, it is also a clothing that was partially improved and worn in countries with Chinese character culture in East Asia, including Korea. It is also presumed that the origin is the clothing worn by the Xianbei tribe that was brought to China because the Tang Dynasty was a country that inherited the Northern Dynasty, which was a barbarian nation.
It is said that the attire from the stone chamber tombs of the early Tang Dynasty, with the skirt pulled up to the chest and tied long, is a unique traditional attire of the Xianbei tribe.
Source: 《historian 几兴废, mulch华常流传--马面裙的始末、解构与重组》author:祁姿妤，艺术设计研究. 2015 Year 02
It is said that the attire from the stone chamber tombs of the early Tang Dynasty, with the skirt pulled up to the chest and tied long, is a unique traditional attire of the Xianbei tribe.
Source: 《historian 几兴废, mulch华常流传--马面裙的始末、解构与重组》author:祁姿妤，艺术设计研究. 2015 Year 02
4.4. curvature
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曲裾袍在汉代就已经灭亡了，曲裾是深衣的一种，现代汉服圈的曲裾，是模仿之马王堆汉墓出土的曲裾袍
The Gokgeopo was destroyed after the collapse of the Han Dynasty, and the Gokgeo is a kind of simui.
As can be seen from the above, the costume is based on the costume of the Miao , one of China's minority ethnic groups .
When the two skirts and 12 pieces of clothing excavated there were compared in terms of their form with the clothing described in the Han Chinese classics, it was judged that they were not the same at all and that the differences were too severe. In summary, it was concluded that the excavated clothing was clearly not the same as the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese.
Source:《试谈长沙马王堆一号、二号汉墓的族属问题》Compiler:容观夐，《民族研究》1979 Chapter 1,（马王堆汉汉汉马王堆汉族属问题的讨论》Compiled by：云峰《People’s Land》April 1983
4.5. Yoo-kun
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Yugunryu clothing refers to clothing worn with a top tucked into a skirt.
Yugun originated from clothes popular in Zhongshan, a white-red country, and was later created under the influence of the clothing of the Han Chinese in the Central Plains. Occasionally, Chinese nationalists claim that the White Reds are descendants of the legendary Emperor Yan, but there is no basis for this. In the first place, because Emperor Yan and Shennong are mythical figures, it is unclear whether they exist or not, and the paper also mentions that the culture of white and red influenced the Han Chinese in the Central Plains.
Source: 《Chinese Ancient Times》 -任继愈主编，Published in 1991
Yugun originated from clothes popular in Zhongshan, a white-red country, and was later created under the influence of the clothing of the Han Chinese in the Central Plains. Occasionally, Chinese nationalists claim that the White Reds are descendants of the legendary Emperor Yan, but there is no basis for this. In the first place, because Emperor Yan and Shennong are mythical figures, it is unclear whether they exist or not, and the paper also mentions that the culture of white and red influenced the Han Chinese in the Central Plains.
Source: 《Chinese Ancient Times》 -任继愈主编，Published in 1991
4.6. cut, spread, direct iron
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Yesal |
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apply |
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direct iron |
曳撒源自蒙元的质孙服，在明朝成了全民皆穿的服装，甚至成了皇室的赐服（什么地位可以想象一下清朝的黄马褂），而明朝人自己则认为曳撒、道袍、直裰都是源自蒙元的袴褶（不同于南北朝、唐朝的袴褶），其实不管这些交领类袍服以及只在明朝早期存在的交领袄裙（中后期就被立领袄裙取代了）是起源什么，但肯定是蒙古人在元朝带入中原的习俗，因为之前唐朝、五代和宋朝，汉族人并不穿这些服装，除了少量连贵族自己一辈子都很难穿几次的礼服类服装，以及南宋朱熹复原的、只在少数士大夫中间穿着、被更多士大夫斥为妖服的深衣外，绝大部分汉人并不穿交领的袍服和交领的袄裙，当时男人主要穿圆领袍，女人穿对襟的襦裙和褙子。穿交领袍服和袄裙并不是唐宋时期汉人的传统。Jesal originated from Mongolia's jilsonbok and became the clothing worn by all citizens during the Ming Dynasty. It even becomes a servant's uniform for the imperial family (imagine the status of the Qing Dynasty's Hwangmagui). And the people of the Ming Dynasty considered themselves to be clothing of Mongolian origin (different from the pleated trousers of the Tang Dynasty of the Southern and Northern Dynasties). In fact, the origin of the application of this ceremonial style and the ceremonial five-gun that existed in the early Ming Dynasty (replaced with the entrance-style five-gun in the mid-to-late period) is clearly a custom brought by the Mongols to the central plains during the Yuan Dynasty. This is because during the five dynasties of the Tang Dynasty and the Song Dynasty, the Han people never wore this type of clothing. And, with the exception of this type of ceremonial attire, which a very small number of nobles could not wear even a few times, and restored by Zhu Xi of the Southern Song Dynasty, only a few noblemen wore it, and except for Sim Yu, who was accused by most of the noblemen of wearing extravagant clothes, most Han Chinese people did not wear the coat of arms of the civil servants and the five military robes of the civil servants. At that time, men mainly wore wonryeongpo, and women wore yugun and baeja, which are two Chinese-style tops that do not overlap but are buttoned in the middle. The practice of distributing doctrines and sending ordinances to soldiers was not a tradition of the Han Chinese during the Tang and Song Dynasties.Source: 文献 《The Ming Dynasty's Ming Dynasty 蒙元服饰遗存初探》
The clothing in question is from the late Songfu and early Mingfu periods, and was heavily influenced by the Yuan Dynasty, making it similar to the Mongolian-style robes . As a result, they quickly disappeared from the history of Chinese clothing due to the Ming Dynasty government's attempt to eliminate Mongolian-style clothing, like the Republic of China, which was born with the cry of extinction and prosperity .
This costume is one that directly affects the current controversy over the distortion of Hanbok in China . The reason is that there is a copy of Ye-sal that was created through Goryeo Yang, and the Hanbok from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the Joseon Dynasty is influenced by the Mongolian Hubok and has a similar appearance. . In fact, it is very interesting considering that it had the same status as the current cheongsam in China at the time .
Gyoryeong’s clothing, such as the dopo, cheollik, and jikcheol of hanbok, can also be seen in a different form from the traditional hanfu. The reason is that although the clothing of this period is the clothing worn by the Han Chinese along with the cheongsam , it is strongly influenced by the Hufu. Originally, Hanfu was worn in a straight-line style that did not cross the clothing (see the Hanfu photos from the Shang~Song Dynasty below). However, this is because these costumes are in the form of crossing clothes. So, after the Ming Dynasty government banned this feature, this type of clothing gradually disappeared, and from the mid-to-late Ming Dynasty, it developed into a button-shaped clothing instead of this type of formal clothing, which is also Hanfu, which has some Mongolian features. For more details, refer to the Hanfu/Ming Dynasty section.
This costume is one that directly affects the current controversy over the distortion of Hanbok in China . The reason is that there is a copy of Ye-sal that was created through Goryeo Yang, and the Hanbok from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the Joseon Dynasty is influenced by the Mongolian Hubok and has a similar appearance. . In fact, it is very interesting considering that it had the same status as the current cheongsam in China at the time .
Gyoryeong’s clothing, such as the dopo, cheollik, and jikcheol of hanbok, can also be seen in a different form from the traditional hanfu. The reason is that although the clothing of this period is the clothing worn by the Han Chinese along with the cheongsam , it is strongly influenced by the Hufu. Originally, Hanfu was worn in a straight-line style that did not cross the clothing (see the Hanfu photos from the Shang~Song Dynasty below). However, this is because these costumes are in the form of crossing clothes. So, after the Ming Dynasty government banned this feature, this type of clothing gradually disappeared, and from the mid-to-late Ming Dynasty, it developed into a button-shaped clothing instead of this type of formal clothing, which is also Hanfu, which has some Mongolian features. For more details, refer to the Hanfu/Ming Dynasty section.
5. Remains of Hanfu in modern times
Hanfu has been richly influenced by foreigners in each dynasty. The Hanfu of the Sui and Tang Dynasties was influenced by the Xianbei tribe , and the Hanfu of the Ming Dynasty was deeply influenced by Goryeo and Mongolian styles . The form of Hanfu that has come down as a true modern tradition was influenced by the Manchurian people . It was passed down for generations and was popular according to the concept of tradition, and the method of wearing and making it is still passed down to this day. Although the clothing in question was influenced by the cheongsam , a Manchurian clothing , the clothing itself is a type of Hanfu, a distinctly Han Chinese clothing.
However, since Hanfu is a modern language, it can be called Qingpu (清服) if it is sung according to the traditional nomenclature.
However, the modern Han Chinese have a trauma dominated by the Qing Dynasty. Indeed, extreme Han Korean nationalists deny that even Hanfu is a bloodshed. In the first place, China's first Republic of China , the Republic of China, was built while shouting the destruction, and before the National Revolution , it was also attempted to revive Hanfu in the past, excluding the Qing Dynasty culture. In the early days, China was better to suppress nationalism, but this happened again as the Chinese government endured this from Xi Jinping.
Meanwhile, ironically, the Hanfu of the Qing Dynasty, the Cheongsam of the Manchurian people, and the costumes of the Republic of Korea period, which were improved by combining them with Western clothing styles , stopped excluding Qing culture after the National Revolution and actively preserved Qing culture after the National Revolution . It continues its legacy in Hong Kong , which had deep cultural exchanges with the Republic of China , and in Chinese communities around the world .
Even after the Qing Dynasty entered the central plains, Taoist monks maintained the clothing of the Ming Dynasty until modern times because they were not interfered with by the Qing Dynasty, but for some reason they are not passed down in modern times.[11]
5.1. In the case of Hakka people
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People of Pingdong Hyun wearing a traditional doubles, Hak -ga -gam . |
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A photo showing the difference in men and women of academia. As you can see, how to wear clothes is different. The people in the photo are civil servants in the Mei Nung Gusam Office , and they went to work like that. |
As a Han Chinese group with a closed culture, the Hakka people inherit a different form of Hanfu from the general Han Chinese. Unusually, both men and women wear the same clothes, and because they are blue in color, they are called Hakka Ramsam ( traditional Chinese :客家藍衫, Hakka Hak-kâ làm sâm, Hakka pinyin : Hag⁵ga¹ Lam² Sam¹, Maehyeon Hakka language) It is called IPA : /hak̚˨ka˨˦lam˩˩sam˦˦/, simplified Chinese character : 客家蓝衫, Chinese Pinyin : Kéjiā Lán Shān, Korean Chinese character sound : Hakka Ramsam). This culture developed vertically in the current Meinong District of Kaohsiung City , and in mainland China, Guangdong Province. It spread mainly among the Hakka people of Chaozhou City .
Hakka people, both men and women, wore Hakka nansam as tops and pants as bottoms, and did not wear skirts. In the case of men, although they were closed because they were under the influence of the Qing Dynasty , they eventually had to wear Manchurian clothing at important occasions and only wore Hakka Nansam in everyday life. But women didn't have to do that.
Hakka people, both men and women, wore Hakka nansam as tops and pants as bottoms, and did not wear skirts. In the case of men, although they were closed because they were under the influence of the Qing Dynasty , they eventually had to wear Manchurian clothing at important occasions and only wore Hakka Nansam in everyday life. But women didn't have to do that.
6. Extra 1: Hobok
Hubok is a collective term for the costumes of the northern nomadic and horse-riding tribes, and contrasts with the Hanfu, the clothing of the southern settled and agricultural tribes.
Hobok is also a form of clothing that Han Chineseists deny the existence of and claim to be a type of Hanfu. This is based on the psychology of denying that their ancestors adopted the clothes of barbarians . Hobok shares more similarities with Hanbok than Hanfu. It has narrow sleeves, ribs, and a feather on the hat. It looks quite similar to the clothing that appears in Goguryeo murals. In the first place, Hanbok itself is based on the Northern clothing, Hobok, so it is natural that it resembles it.
Unlike Hanfu, which is a southern costume, the representative characteristics of Northern clothes, Hobok and Hanbok, are that they have pants for comfortable riding and narrow sleeves for easy handling of weapons such as shooting an arrow . It can be seen that the structure was designed in consideration of high activity as it was derived from the clothes worn by the northern peoples who lived nomadic and equestrian life.
In addition, it is presumed that there is an influence of the natural environment. Hanfu is influenced by the hot southern environment and has wide sleeves to allow the wind to pass through, and both men and women wear a skirt.[12] Hobok and Hanbok have narrow sleeves to block the wind due to the cold northern environment, and both men and women wear pants. As you know, it is very cold in winter in what is now Central Asia, southern Russia, the Mongolian Plateau, northern China, Manchuria, and the Korean Peninsula, which were the main areas of activity for northern peoples.
Since the 3rd century BC during the Warring States Period, Hubok has had a great influence on China's Hanfu, with the most notable influence being the introduction of pants . Hanfu was originally a top-down type of clothing where men also wore a skirt and pants over the top, a type of clothing that was originally worn by horseback riding people, and is a characteristic of the Hobok. Then, in order to take advantage of horseback riding tactics, King Jo Muryeong ignored his subjects, royal family, and the crown prince who vehemently opposed him, saying, 'We cannot accept the barbarian's barbaric clothing.'[13] Starting with the introduction of the protection system, the countries of the Warring States Period began to use cavalry and wear pants to expand their military power. As a result, northern pants were created in Hanfu, and later, protection equipment, including Danryeong , were incorporated into Hanfu.
More details in the Hobok document.
7. Extra 2: What is the perception of the time of the Ming Dynasty?
On social media, many Chinese people claim that they are the originators and influencers of Korean hanbok, based on the Ming Dynasty hanfu. However, based on all of the above-mentioned evidence, it can be said that Ming Dynasty Hanfu is a clothing that has not been seen before in the clothing history of the Han people and suddenly appeared, and has a great influence from Goryeo. In fact, this content is described as it is in the Annals of the Ming Dynasty by Emperor Taejo.
太祖高皇帝實錄 卷三十 洪武元年 二月 十一日 詔復衣冠如唐制初元世祖起自朔漠以有天下悉以胡俗變易中國之制士庶咸辮髮椎髻深䄡胡俗衣服 胡俗衣服:舊校改俗作帽。 則為袴褶窄袖及辮線腰褶婦女衣窄袖短衣下服裙裳無復中國衣冠之舊甚者易其姓氏為胡名習胡語俗化既久恬不知怪 上久厭之至是悉命𣸪衣冠如唐制士民皆束髮于頂官則烏紗帽圓領袍束帶黑靴士庶則服四帶巾 士庶則服四帶巾:明史輿服志同。廣本四作回。健按:實錄卷四十九第二頁後十一行作四帶巾。 雜色盤領衣不得用黃玄 衣不得用黃玄:廣本玄下有色字。 樂工冠青卍字頂巾 青卍字頂巾:廣本無卍字；抱本作萬。 繫紅綠帛帶士庶妻首飾許用銀鍍金耳環用金珠釧鐲用銀服淺色團衫用紵絲綾羅紬絹其樂妓則戴明角冠皂褙子不許與庶民妻同不得服兩截胡衣其辮髮椎髻胡服胡語胡姓一切禁止斟酌損益皆斷自 聖心于是百有餘年胡俗悉復中國之舊矣 |
On February 11, February 11, the Emperor of the Emperor of the Emperor Taejo, the Emperor ordered to restore the clothing and control to the Tang Dynasty system. Sejo of the Yuan Dynasty rose from the northern meadows and occupied the world, and overall, the Chinese system was changed to the customs of Oranca. The management and the people were both tied up and tied up, wearing thick clothes, and wearing Oranca's outfits. Men wore narrow sleeves pants and wore clothes with straps on the waist. Women could no longer see traditional Chinese costumes by wearing short and skirts of narrow sleeves. Even threw away the surname and changed it to the name of the Oranca, and learned their language and did not regard it at all, even if it was assimilated in the customs of Oranca for a long time. The emperor hate it for a long time, and finally he ordered to completely return to the Dang Dynasty of the Tang Dynasty. All the people tied their heads to the crown, and the officials wore ** Osamo (紗 紗 紗, a black cloth) ** and ** Wonyeongpo (圓 袍 袍, a rounded fabric). The general scholars and the people wore ** four -four -gun (帶, four hats with four straps), and wore clothes with round feathers of various colors, but could not be used for yellow and black. The musician who plays the music is a ** hats with a blue (man) pattern, and ** is a red stream made of red and blue cloth. The women of the ordinary people were able to use silver -plated silver earrings, and the bracelet was allowed to make it a silver. The light -colored ** disconnection (衫, traditional Chinese clothing of round feathers) ** was worn, and it was made of fabrics such as low (紵 紵, burlap room), tung (羅), la, state, and dogs. The musical instrument performers and the parasitic (樂 妓 妓) were used as a ** famous horn -shaped mistress, and had to wear a black silkworm (皂褙子). In addition, two sculptures were divided into the top and bottom of the Oranca. All of them were banned from discaped (辮 辮), tied hair, orangca costumes, orangka language, and orangca surname. All measures were determined by carefully adjusted according to the will of the emperor. Thus, the oranca customs that lasted for over 100 years have completely disappeared and the tradition of Chinese tradition has been restored. |
The point to pay attention to here is
1.則為袴褶窄袖及辮線腰褶婦女衣窄袖短衣下服裙裳無復中國衣冠之舊 Women could no longer see traditional Chinese costumes by wearing short and skirts of narrow sleeves. |
2.不許與庶民妻同不得服兩截胡衣 The common people and the wives were banned to wear two -and -muzzle, which were divided up and down, or up and down. |
In other words, it was already clear at that time that the Korean-style Hanfu posted by Chinese people on social media was not Hanfu at that time.
7.1. Is Hanbok originating in the Ming Dynasty?
First of all, the origin of the Chinese jeogori (jeogori) is Hubok, and the Three Emperors' Confucianism places it in the Northern Qi, an ethnic nation, not the Han Chinese nation. Northern Qi was a 6th-century country, and at that time, Goguryeo's jeogori was already confirmed in the 4th and 5th centuries. And Goguryeo's clothing is shared with Silla and Baekje, and the Book of Tang already mentions that Silla's clothing is the same as that of Goguryeo and Baekje. This costume divided into upper and lower parts can be seen on the Silla Ichadon martyr monument and the Silla Eosukmyo female statue, and also appears in large numbers on Silla clay pottery. The ancient kingdoms of the Korean Peninsula were already wearing two-piece clothes divided into upper and lower parts. On the Korean Peninsula, this type of clothing was already passed down without change until the end of the Joseon Dynasty.
However, this clothing suddenly became popular in the Mongolian court as a large number of Goryeo princesses and courtiers became active after the Mongol invasion, and this is the Goryeo style. First of all, the two-piece clothing, that is, divided into a jeogori and a skirt, can be said to be Goryeo style, and it was a common clothing style for the northern peoples at the time, and the Liao Dynasty of the Khitan people also shared this clothing. Therefore, the Han people of the Song Dynasty at that time knew more than anyone else that this type of clothing was not Hanfu, and they became the target of ostracism in the national style revival movement of the Ming Dynasty during the Yuan-Ming era. The passage in which it was declared that this clothing was not the clothing of the Han Chinese and was banned appears in the Annals of King Taejo’s reign. The excerpt from the full text is as follows.
However, this clothing suddenly became popular in the Mongolian court as a large number of Goryeo princesses and courtiers became active after the Mongol invasion, and this is the Goryeo style. First of all, the two-piece clothing, that is, divided into a jeogori and a skirt, can be said to be Goryeo style, and it was a common clothing style for the northern peoples at the time, and the Liao Dynasty of the Khitan people also shared this clothing. Therefore, the Han people of the Song Dynasty at that time knew more than anyone else that this type of clothing was not Hanfu, and they became the target of ostracism in the national style revival movement of the Ming Dynasty during the Yuan-Ming era. The passage in which it was declared that this clothing was not the clothing of the Han Chinese and was banned appears in the Annals of King Taejo’s reign. The excerpt from the full text is as follows.
為袴褶窄袖及辮線腰褶婦女衣窄袖短衣下服裙裳無復中國衣冠之舊 Women could no longer see traditional Chinese costumes by wearing short and skirts of narrow sleeves. |
不許與庶民妻同不得服兩截胡衣 Common people and their wives and children were prohibited from wearing two-piece barbarian clothes, with top and bottom. |
In this way, the two-piece clothing of jeogori and skirt was gradually destroyed, and the Gyoryeong (y-collar) clothing, which was not strictly a Han Chinese tradition, was also destroyed and changed into a button shape, and it was shaped into a Jiknyeong (straight collar) shape, and almost disappeared 50 years after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, and these clothes disappeared in the middle period. Also, during the early and mid-Ming Dynasty, the remaining Goryeo style mamigun (a petticoat that enriches both men's and women's skirts) was banned.
The same goes for men's clothing. In particular, it is gradually becoming clear that Gat has no relation to the Ming Dynasty. The hat is called 笠 (rip) in the Ming Dynasty and is of a different type from the daemo (大帽), which is said to be the origin of the hat. However, these concepts were used interchangeably during the Song and Yuan Dynasties, and were also used interchangeably during the Ming Dynasty. First of all, even in Chinese records,
事林廣記笠子古者雖出於外國今世俗皆頂之或以牛尾馬尾為之或棕或皁羅皁紗之 In Sarimgwanggi, although the sword came from a foreign country in the past, it is now worn on everyone's head in the world. Or they make it with oxtail or horsetail, or with palm, or with black silk or black ramie, etc. |
It was stated that it was not an item that originated in China in the first place.
And already during the Ming Dynasty, there is a record of the Ming Dynasty court restricting hats similar to Goryeo hats to be worn when it rains, rather than being widely worn hats.
And already during the Ming Dynasty, there is a record of the Ming Dynasty court restricting hats similar to Goryeo hats to be worn when it rains, rather than being widely worn hats.
雨衣雨帽 玉色深藍官綠杭紬或好油絹為之亦有蠶繭紙為者有斗體式有道袍式加掛者御前大内臣值穿紅之日有紅雨衣彩畫蟒衣方補為貼裏式者雨帽則如方巾周圍加簷三寸許耳亦有竹胎絹糊黒油漆如髙麗帽式者惟御前大内臣戴之《明宮史》 The rain hat was shaped like a square and had a brim of about three inches around it. There was also a style similar to the Goryeo hat made of bamboo as a frame, covered with silk, and then painted black, and this was worn only by high-ranking court officials. |
There are additional records that support this, including the Donghwanbongsa (東還封事), in which a Joseon envoy recorded Chinese customs just before the Japanese invasions of Korea.
中原雖有笠制。而人不能備。其出行之際。文官着忠靜冠。武官着毛帽而有簷。儒用儒巾。或着方巾。吏用吏巾。常人皆着帽子。而東方之人。不論貴賤。通戴笠子 “In the midfield, there is a system of 笠 (God), but when people do not complete it, when they go out and come out, the civilians use the loyalty pavilion, the independence is used, the larvae use the ugly or destroyer, and the war is used, and the common people wear a hat Write God. ” |
Likewise, there is no basis for universal wearing of hats in China, and there are no records to prove the universality of hats being worn by the people in their customs, Cheongmyeong Sanghado, or other customs.
In particular, unlike the Chinese hat, the Korean hat is not worn by pressing it on the head, but is placed on the head as a lip, so the diameter of the hat's cylinder is significantly smaller than the head circumference. In this way, the hat will come off unless you secure it by tying the hat string under the rice cake or tying the hat beads tightly to the side of the head. On the other hand, the Ming Dynasty's Great Hat, which originated from Mongolia, is a type of hat worn rather than worn, so there is no need to secure it with a separate string, so the hat string is hanging rather than fastened in the portrait wearing the Great Hat. However, controversy over distortion continues over baseless and low-level claims without evidence that only compare pictures from China by looking for similarities in shape.
It is clear that the succession relationship in which the Korean hat is worn on the head and must be secured under the chin with a string is a tradition that has already been continued from the Jeolpung crown hat of Goguryeo and the gilt bronze crown hat of Baekje Silla.
Controversies over origins and inheritance of tradition should not be concluded solely by looking at shapes similar to simple paintings. The act of claiming the origin of hats because they are similar in shape leads to the error that all brimmed hats, such as Mexican hats, cowboy hats, and British gentleman hats, originated in China.
Hanfu also records
中國衣冠自北濟以來 乃全用胡服 means that China's clothing has been using all Hubok since the Northern Qi Dynasty, and in Zhu Xi's style it is called 今世之服 大抵皆胡服, so today's clothes are all Hubok. |
Even though this fact has already been revealed in official clothing studies, the perception that Korean clothing was influenced only through China can be seen as a defense against the current sense of cultural inferiority.
Hanbok is already a traditional clothing that has been influenced by Scythian clothing and Hufu from the north and has been passed down with systematic consistency with little change since the Goguryeo period. It can be said to be a clothing that developed independently from Hanfu under the influence of Hubok. There are some royal attires that were influenced by the Central Plains dynasty, but there are some that have already undergone independent changes and become indigenous and have already become local traditions. However, if you look closely, it is rare to find clothes that are purely of Hanfu origin.
Hanbok is already a traditional clothing that has been influenced by Scythian clothing and Hufu from the north and has been passed down with systematic consistency with little change since the Goguryeo period. It can be said to be a clothing that developed independently from Hanfu under the influence of Hubok. There are some royal attires that were influenced by the Central Plains dynasty, but there are some that have already undergone independent changes and become indigenous and have already become local traditions. However, if you look closely, it is rare to find clothes that are purely of Hanfu origin.
8. Hanfu by era
8.1. Shang/Zhou Era
Hanfu in the Shang Dynasty. | Hanfu of the Zhou Dynasty drawn by Osprey. | |
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Unlike the Habok style, which is a type of Altai clothing, there are no pants and both men and women have developed a skirt, and it is wrapped in multiple layers.
8.2. Spring and Autumn Warring States Period
Men started wearing pants from this time. The magic of China was introduced in this era, and the pants of Hanpu were introduced in the national era , and the pants were introduced as the king of the northern people was introduced in the midfield war . At first, there were many opposition opinions, saying, 'How do we follow the oranga's clothes?'[15] In the era of war, pants, which were military uniforms, became male costumes in all China, as the omnipotentization of military forces was spread to the midfield.[16] However, the form of early short pants was very different.
8.3. Qin Dynasty , Han Dynasty
Unlike the hanbok, the northern clothes, even during this period, a woman or the upper class was usually formed around Gokerpo, a dress that is tied up by turning round and round because it is not wearing pants or open windmills .
The shape that completely wrapped the neck like a scarf gradually came down to reveal the inner and outer layers, and the various shapes of topknots remaining from ancient relics show the fusion of various ethnic groups. There is a strong theory that Simui, a garment that deeply wraps around the body, originated from Gokgeopo.
According to the record, there were many windmill pants when wearing bottoms in the grain gun, but this was a reason to make it easier to see, and there were also pants that covered the crotch, but the recognition that it was uncomfortable, it seems that the upper class was usually attempted to wear only a decent person. In the case of short pants covering the crotch, it was a little different from the current pants, which was the opposite of the windmill pants. On the other hand, the common people who are hard to wear clothes that come down to the floor because of labor are already recorded as the mainstream of the pants and the large pants were common.
In the early days of the Han Dynasty , the straight hem was popular, and since the middle of the Han Dynasty, the pants became the mainstream among the aristocrats.
8.4. Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties period
After the fall of the Han Dynasty, which placed great emphasis on traditional etiquette and doctrine, and in a period of social chaos, the Chinese pursued a free spirit. Men began to wear makeup, and women's clothes developed into colorful and complicated uniforms. Because there were so many countries, it cannot be said that the form was standardized.
Due to the popularity of Taoism , the ethos that embodied a fairy was also popular.
With the development of lower garments, the collars and hems gradually became straighter, and the two-piece attire of pants and jeogori and chima jeogori developed.
The photo above is Daesugwansam, a garment worn by men.
Due to the popularity of Taoism , the ethos that embodied a fairy was also popular.
With the development of lower garments, the collars and hems gradually became straighter, and the two-piece attire of pants and jeogori and chima jeogori developed.
The photo above is Daesugwansam, a garment worn by men.
8.5. tang
Danryeong , often worn by Xianbei men and some women as official uniform and basic attire . It is a type of hobok (胡服) that originated in the West . From this time on, the culture of East Asian countries wearing Danryeong as official uniform began.
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From left to right, women's clothing during the early Tang, Wuzhou, Xiangang, Middle and Late Tang dynasties |
The Tang Dynasty , which was ruleed by the Hanbi Mukcheonjin Long group from the Seonbi , a northern immigrant, was open enough to accept many of the elements that would be part of the Oranca culture from the Han Chinese . Many of the regional cultures in various regions have been fused to the unique Chinese culture that has been formed to the past.
In particular, China during the Tang Dynasty has changed its sexual culture through exchanges with various countries , and women's clothing, which has been restricted by Confucian customs , has changed very openly .
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Although the background was the background, the film empress recreated it well .
Mumi Lang Electric began to air on December 21, 2014, and suddenly stopped on December 28, and the broadcast resumed on January 1, 2015, because the actress's costume was controversial because the costumes were severe . The breastbone is not visible by close -up of the face, but the computer graphics is added to the breastbone and the crystal plate was made. However, the amendment is limited to the Chinese continental board. The Taiwanese CTV version is anhydrous plate. Unfortunately, Hong Kong TVB bought it as an amendment. However, this is not the fault of the crew, but the Hanfu itself in the upper class of the Tang Dynasty is very exposed. However, as the costumes of the play, the doubles of the high -exposure form, such as the costumes of the Tang Dynasty, appeared only in the mid -end of the Tang Dynasty , and in the early Tang Dynasty, which is the background of the play, the exposure was relatively low. If you want to see the form of doubles in the early Tang Dynasty, see the drama Daedang Young. So when explaining the difference between Hanbok and Hanpu, you can explain this exposure.
Thanks to this development, Hanfu in Tang Dynasty is the most preferred traditional costume in China. It is often the best traditional costume.
During the period of the North and South , Korea reflected this Tang Dynasty-style clothing, mainly for the high-ranking people in Silla and Balhae .[17] Japan was also influenced by Tang Dynasty clothing in the kimono worn by high-ranking people from the Nara period to the early Heian period , which was a similar period. This was the time when the clothing of each East Asian country was most similar.
Some of the Korea -China -Japan interpret the Tang dynasty's doubles radio waves, and the foundation of Korea's ancient hanbok and the ancient kimono of Japan is the Tang Dynasty Hanpu , and even experts make such claims seriously.[18] Even if the Tang Dynasty, the Silla and Bohai, and the Nara era , Japan's dynasty, it was just a style that was popular in an era, but the claim that the Dynasty Doubles was the origin of hanbok and kimono.
The trend of pursuing beauty was prevalent, and cosmetic techniques developed. It is characterized by painting the face white and giving points with dark eyebrows, penguin-like lips, excessive cheek touches, and a flower dot between the eyebrows inspired by the Indian bindi .
Mumi Lang Electric began to air on December 21, 2014, and suddenly stopped on December 28, and the broadcast resumed on January 1, 2015, because the actress's costume was controversial because the costumes were severe . The breastbone is not visible by close -up of the face, but the computer graphics is added to the breastbone and the crystal plate was made. However, the amendment is limited to the Chinese continental board. The Taiwanese CTV version is anhydrous plate. Unfortunately, Hong Kong TVB bought it as an amendment. However, this is not the fault of the crew, but the Hanfu itself in the upper class of the Tang Dynasty is very exposed. However, as the costumes of the play, the doubles of the high -exposure form, such as the costumes of the Tang Dynasty, appeared only in the mid -end of the Tang Dynasty , and in the early Tang Dynasty, which is the background of the play, the exposure was relatively low. If you want to see the form of doubles in the early Tang Dynasty, see the drama Daedang Young. So when explaining the difference between Hanbok and Hanpu, you can explain this exposure.
Thanks to this development, Hanfu in Tang Dynasty is the most preferred traditional costume in China. It is often the best traditional costume.
During the period of the North and South , Korea reflected this Tang Dynasty-style clothing, mainly for the high-ranking people in Silla and Balhae .[17] Japan was also influenced by Tang Dynasty clothing in the kimono worn by high-ranking people from the Nara period to the early Heian period , which was a similar period. This was the time when the clothing of each East Asian country was most similar.
Some of the Korea -China -Japan interpret the Tang dynasty's doubles radio waves, and the foundation of Korea's ancient hanbok and the ancient kimono of Japan is the Tang Dynasty Hanpu , and even experts make such claims seriously.[18] Even if the Tang Dynasty, the Silla and Bohai, and the Nara era , Japan's dynasty, it was just a style that was popular in an era, but the claim that the Dynasty Doubles was the origin of hanbok and kimono.
The trend of pursuing beauty was prevalent, and cosmetic techniques developed. It is characterized by painting the face white and giving points with dark eyebrows, penguin-like lips, excessive cheek touches, and a flower dot between the eyebrows inspired by the Indian bindi .
8.6. song
Song Dynasty clothing added unique Song Dynasty characteristics to Tang Dynasty clothing. Unlike the Tang Dynasty, the situation was not stable, and due to the influence of Neo-Confucianism , it pursued a less extravagant and more simple design than the Tang Dynasty.
As for men's clothing, in addition to the existing danryeong and bokdu worn during the Tang Dynasty, an outfit with a skirt over an outer garment similar to a po (袍), which can be seen in ancient portraits of the late Joseon Dynasty , appeared, and dongpa-gwan and sim-ui were worn as private and daily clothes. Gowns and simui were also imported from Goryeo and worn as joint clothing, and were later passed down to Joseon .
Women wore malhyeong (抹胸), a type of underwear in the form of a breast covering, and then put on Gaedanggo (underpants) and Haedanggo (underpants) in that order, then wore a skirt/pants over it, and finally, Baeja. Baeja came in a variety of styles, including long and short sleeves, wide and narrow sleeves, and the sleeves and collar were decorated with embroidery. How to wear
8.7. Ming Dynasty
more detailsHanfu/Ming Dynasty documentcastPlease note.8.8. Qing Dynasty
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Women's Hanfu from the Qing Dynasty. |
Illustration of a Chinese Han woman wearing Hanfu from the Qing Dynasty. The illustrator drew the traditional costumes of the ethnic groups that make up China (Han Chinese + ethnic minorities ), and the Han Chinese costume is the Hanfu of the Qing Dynasty. #[19]
In the drama < Concubine Gyeonhwanjeon >, the main character, Gyeonhwan, dressed in Han Chinese casual clothes before entering the palace. Gyeon-Hwan is from Hangungi.
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Hanfu from the Qing Dynasty in a painting from around the 1800s. |
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Han Chinese women wearing Hanfu, 19th century Qing Dynasty. |
Unlike Manchurian women who wore qizhuang, Han Chinese women during the Qing Dynasty[20] They continued to wear a costume consisting of a skirt (chun) and a jeogori (ao), and the custom of foot binding was also maintained. The men's clothing forced by the Qing Dynasty was assimilated into the Manchurian costume, but women were able to relatively maintain the Han Chinese culture. # # The customs of women who were less active outside were changed by the Qing Dynasty government.[21] There is a big aspect of leaving it alone.
The harpy, which existed during the Ming Dynasty and was also introduced to the Joseon Dynasty , changed from its original form of a long belt to a vest-shaped outer garment during the Qing Dynasty. On auspicious days, the Han Chinese ladies wore a harpy (霞帔), which was changed into a vest, on top of the Han Chinese clothing called Mangpo (蟒袍), and on top of it, they wore a shoulder strap called Ungyeon (雲肩), which had also been inherited from the Ming Dynasty. I put on a cloak. On his head, he wore a crown that had been handed down since the Ming Dynasty.
During the Qing Dynasty, the Han Chinese, a heterogeneous sedentary race, wore two-piece clothing, and the Manchurians wore long Qizhuangs. This can be said to be the result of the two-piece clothing becoming established in Han Chinese culture through the Yuan-Ming Dynasty. It is difficult to say that the Manchurian clothing is a modern cheongsam in the form of a perfect one-piece dress . The Manchurian people's clothing, like that of the Ming Dynasty and Joseon Dynasty, can be seen as a two-piece outfit with a robe over it. The Manchurian's chizhuang served as a changpao (long robe), a long outer garment (po), and on the inside, both men and women wore a two-piece outfit consisting of a jeogori (jeogori) and trousers.[22]
Ao and Ma Myeon in the Qing Dynasty.
During the Qing Dynasty, Hanfu was heavily influenced by the Manchurian people, and the shape and fastening of the top was changed to a button fastening similar to that of the cheongsam. On the other hand, the skirt continued to be worn as a mask, which had been worn since the Ming Dynasty, but became more colorful and elaborate during the Qing Dynasty. There were many extravagantly decorated skirts, such as lines around the width of the skirt to resemble the shape of a railing, or countless pleats and embroidery on them. While pure Han Chinese dynasties, including the Ming Dynasty, pursued frugality under the influence of Confucianism, the Tang Dynasty, a mixed- ethnic dynasty, and the Yuan and Qing dynasties, which were purely ethnic dynasties, pursued relative extravagance. Therefore, the clothing of Han Chinese women seems to have been influenced by this and became relatively extravagant under the ethnic dynasties.
During the Qing Dynasty, only trousers were worn as lower garments. This was a Manchurian culture. In the early and middle ages, it was mainly lower-class women who wore only trousers without a skirt, but in the late Qing Dynasty, Han Chinese women, regardless of social status and ethnicity, also wore only jeogori and trousers. Afterwards, until the fall of the Qing Dynasty, Han Chinese women stuck to the two-piece costume, but after the establishment of the Republic of China , a Han Chinese nation , they began to improve and develop the Qizhuang worn by the Manchurian people. In fact, the image of 'cheongsam' that we think of is a costume that the Han Chinese improved on the Qizhuang in the 1920s during the Republic of China, and its history is not that long.
Currently, Hanfu from the Qing Dynasty is most commonly used as a traditional Chinese wedding attire.[23] Recently, as the activities of some Han Chinese nationalists have become more active, they are using Hanfu from the Ming Dynasty or earlier periods as wedding attire, but many Han Chinese groups, including overseas Chinese, still use Hanfu from the Qing Dynasty as wedding attire.[24] Even during the Qing Dynasty, the Han Chinese Saesaeksi grew up in a different outfit from the Manchurian Saesaeksi, so the tradition continued.
However, in addition to women's Hanfu, men's Hanfu did not cease to exist. Taoist monks were able to maintain the Hanfu and footwear of the Han Chinese, and Manchurian nobles and imperial family members could wear Hanfu as a hobby, and Hanfu was passed down to the general public, including anti-Qing figures, so it did not completely disappear. Peking opera actors were also allowed to wear wigs and hanfu as stage costumes.
The harpy, which existed during the Ming Dynasty and was also introduced to the Joseon Dynasty , changed from its original form of a long belt to a vest-shaped outer garment during the Qing Dynasty. On auspicious days, the Han Chinese ladies wore a harpy (霞帔), which was changed into a vest, on top of the Han Chinese clothing called Mangpo (蟒袍), and on top of it, they wore a shoulder strap called Ungyeon (雲肩), which had also been inherited from the Ming Dynasty. I put on a cloak. On his head, he wore a crown that had been handed down since the Ming Dynasty.
During the Qing Dynasty, the Han Chinese, a heterogeneous sedentary race, wore two-piece clothing, and the Manchurians wore long Qizhuangs. This can be said to be the result of the two-piece clothing becoming established in Han Chinese culture through the Yuan-Ming Dynasty. It is difficult to say that the Manchurian clothing is a modern cheongsam in the form of a perfect one-piece dress . The Manchurian people's clothing, like that of the Ming Dynasty and Joseon Dynasty, can be seen as a two-piece outfit with a robe over it. The Manchurian's chizhuang served as a changpao (long robe), a long outer garment (po), and on the inside, both men and women wore a two-piece outfit consisting of a jeogori (jeogori) and trousers.[22]
Ao and Ma Myeon in the Qing Dynasty.
During the Qing Dynasty, Hanfu was heavily influenced by the Manchurian people, and the shape and fastening of the top was changed to a button fastening similar to that of the cheongsam. On the other hand, the skirt continued to be worn as a mask, which had been worn since the Ming Dynasty, but became more colorful and elaborate during the Qing Dynasty. There were many extravagantly decorated skirts, such as lines around the width of the skirt to resemble the shape of a railing, or countless pleats and embroidery on them. While pure Han Chinese dynasties, including the Ming Dynasty, pursued frugality under the influence of Confucianism, the Tang Dynasty, a mixed- ethnic dynasty, and the Yuan and Qing dynasties, which were purely ethnic dynasties, pursued relative extravagance. Therefore, the clothing of Han Chinese women seems to have been influenced by this and became relatively extravagant under the ethnic dynasties.
During the Qing Dynasty, only trousers were worn as lower garments. This was a Manchurian culture. In the early and middle ages, it was mainly lower-class women who wore only trousers without a skirt, but in the late Qing Dynasty, Han Chinese women, regardless of social status and ethnicity, also wore only jeogori and trousers. Afterwards, until the fall of the Qing Dynasty, Han Chinese women stuck to the two-piece costume, but after the establishment of the Republic of China , a Han Chinese nation , they began to improve and develop the Qizhuang worn by the Manchurian people. In fact, the image of 'cheongsam' that we think of is a costume that the Han Chinese improved on the Qizhuang in the 1920s during the Republic of China, and its history is not that long.
Currently, Hanfu from the Qing Dynasty is most commonly used as a traditional Chinese wedding attire.[23] Recently, as the activities of some Han Chinese nationalists have become more active, they are using Hanfu from the Ming Dynasty or earlier periods as wedding attire, but many Han Chinese groups, including overseas Chinese, still use Hanfu from the Qing Dynasty as wedding attire.[24] Even during the Qing Dynasty, the Han Chinese Saesaeksi grew up in a different outfit from the Manchurian Saesaeksi, so the tradition continued.
However, in addition to women's Hanfu, men's Hanfu did not cease to exist. Taoist monks were able to maintain the Hanfu and footwear of the Han Chinese, and Manchurian nobles and imperial family members could wear Hanfu as a hobby, and Hanfu was passed down to the general public, including anti-Qing figures, so it did not completely disappear. Peking opera actors were also allowed to wear wigs and hanfu as stage costumes.
9. type
- All Chinese characters written here are traditional characters, and those used in China are simplified characters.
- As you can see from the kimono documentation, traditional clothing is usually called according to the pronunciation of the country. Conversely, in foreign countries, Hanbok is written and called according to Korean pronunciation. It must be written according to Chinese pronunciation, not Korean Chinese characters.
- Shangyīxiàshāng (上衣下裳/shàngyīxiàshāng): This refers to a attire consisting of a top and a skirt, and is commonly used as a representative word for Chinese attire.[25] Literally, wearing a top and a skirt is called a top and bottom.
9.1. female hanfu
9.2. male hanfu
- Mianfu (冕服/miǎnfú)
- Hufu (胡服/húfú)
- Changshan (Changshan)
- Zhao Mountain (罩衫/zhàoshān)
- Chaofu
- Changfu
- Paoshan (袍衫/páoshān)
- Visa (比甲/bǐjiǎ)
- Longpao (龙袍/lóngpao): dragon robe
- Mangpao (蟒袍/mǎngpáo)
- Fútóu (幞頭)
- Yingjiao Putou (硬脚幞頭)
- 禮冠/lǐguān
- Wusamao (烏沙帽/wūshāmào)
10. Awareness and Hanfu trends within modern China
more detailsHanfu exercise documentcastPlease note.11. etc
- Hanbok illustrator Woo Yong-gok was interviewed by Game Mecca in November 2020 when the conflict between Korea and China surrounding hanbok surfaced due to the Shining Nikki Hanbok incident , and said, “ Ming Dynasty. “There are cases where people mistake Goryeo-yang clothing for Joseon-era hanbok and curse at Chinese illustrators who drew pictures using it,” and “There are also cases where clothing that is not Goryeo-yang is called Goryeo-yang and Chinese-style clothing is explained as indigenous,” he said, pointing out that the emotional backlash of some Koreans is also hindering progressive discussions .[26] #
- In addition, in a blog post answering questions about the Hanbok and Hanfu controversy on January 5, 2021, Woo Yong-gok said , 'This is also an issue that needs to be addressed regarding Goryeo Yang. Just as it is not valid for China to say about Hanbok, “Hanbok was influenced by China, so it is Chinese culture,” it is also not valid to claim that “Hanfu was influenced by Goryeo Yang, so Goryeo Yang Hanfu from the late Yuan Dynasty and early Ming Dynasty is Korean.”[27] In the first place, Ming Dynasty clothing and Joseon clothing are similar, but if you go into detail, they are very different. From the point when it was influenced by Goryeo, China was already transforming and developing in its own way. The same goes for hanbok. Couldn’t it be said that the clothing of the Ming Dynasty and the clothing of Joseon were completely the same? Although they were influenced by each other, it is natural for each to become different through independent development. That's why it's really meaningless to discuss who is the original and whose it is. Of course, this does not mean that we should just ignore the Chinese people’s cultural process. We must properly refute and respond to China's claims, but we must not go further and claim that 'Chinese Ming Dynasty clothing is ours.' In fact, there are cases where Korean netizens on the Internet attack Ming Dynasty Hanfu, mistaking it for Joseon Hanbok. (Of course, apart from the fact that the recreated Ming Dynasty costumes were made with Hanbok in mind.) Also, in relation to hats , there are cases of people attacking the Ming Dynasty hats by mistaking them for Korean hats. This kind of fight only causes mutual misunderstanding and does not provide a fundamental solution. It is good to fight against Chinese distortions, but it is not too late to criticize after learning about Chinese clothing. Emotional responses only stimulate them further. 'We must respond rationally according to our logic,' he said.
12. look around
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[ culture ]
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[1] For reference, this clothing from the Ming Dynasty was from Mongolia. It is a Goryeo style that was popular from the late Yuan Dynasty, a conquering dynasty , to the early and middle periods of the Ming Dynasty . The characteristics of the hanbok are clearly demonstrated by the fact that the bottom and top are separate, as is typical of northern ethnic clothing, and the neck area is decorated with a beaded cloth.
[2] Many people know that the cheongsam is the traditional clothing of the Manchu people , but the cheongsam is not the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, but rather an improvement by the Han Chinese of the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, 'Qizhuang'.[3] In fact, until the 2000s, the term Hanfu was close to an academic term that even Chinese people rarely used. The general public began using it in the 2010s, so it can almost be considered a new word.[4] In the Sui and Tang dynasties themselves, the leadership of the royal family belonged to the Xianbei people who were assimilated into the Han people, so the Xianbei people's clothing culture had a very great influence on the Chinese clothing culture of the time.[5] In the first place, it is impossible for any ethnic group to have a perfect national culture unless they live in an extremely closed area. The same goes for China.[6] There are many cases of misunderstanding when looking at the current behavior of China and North Korea, but communism treats ideas that promote a specific ethnic group as reactionary and views them as ideas that should disappear. Before Stalin , the Soviet Union did not even have an official language, and this was the reason for reorganizing the national system from the existing Russian unitary system to a union system of several Soviet republics in accordance with Lenin's theory of national liberation. In the early days of the establishment of the People's Republic of China, China also broke down the unitary system of the existing Republic of China period and granted autonomous regions to each ethnic minority, carrying out the national liberation policy described above. It is not for nothing that Juche Idea and New Era Socialism with Chinese Characteristics are treated as pseudo-communism.[7] However, the galabella also has its origins in the Tarkan costume of ancient Egypt , so the modern galabella is not completely unrelated to the ancient Egyptian costume.[8] Many people know that the cheongsam is the traditional costume of the Manchu people , but since the cheongsam is not the traditional costume of the Manchu people, it is an improved version of the Manchurian traditional costume, ' Qizhuang ', so it is not right to say that it is not of the Han people at all.[9] Cheollik, widely known as the attire of noblemen, has a Mongolian name .[10] However, in the case of Qingpu, the Ma Mianqian (马面裙) of the later Mingpu was inherited as is, and had characteristics that were clearly distinct from the Manchurian people.[11] If you look at photos of modern China, you can often see Taoist monks wearing Hanfu from the Ming Dynasty.[12] For example, over time, kimonos have become closer to southern clothing, with sleeves and trousers becoming wider and slits appearing near the shoulders and armpits due to the influence of the hot and humid environment of the Japanese archipelago.[13] King Jo Muryeong ignored the mountain of appeals and pushed for Hobokryeong by taking a hardline policy of dethroning the crown prince who was opposed to Hobokryeong. He was truly a reformer who overturned the common sense of his time.[14] Even during the Spring and Autumn Period , the area around the current Yellow River was a vegetation area similar to a dense forest area. In fact, fossils of rhinos and elephants have been excavated in the area .[15] Above all, the northern peoples invaded and plundered China whenever they had the opportunity, so the Chinese people had strong negative feelings toward the northern peoples.[16] This was the same in the West ( ancient Rome ) during a similar period. In the first place, the simplest form of clothing that humans could make was a skirt, so originally everyone, regardless of gender, wore only skirts, but northern peoples living in cold regions invented pants to withstand the cold and to ride horses. . Pants were introduced to China from the northern equestrian peoples of the Central Plains during the Warring States Period, and to the Latin people , pants were introduced from the Celts during the ancient Roman period. However, in the early days, they were shorts that exposed the calves rather than full long pants. Long pants were introduced from the Germanic tribes in the late Roman period.[17] Until now, the unique costume of hanbok also existed at the same time.[18] Japanese tomb murals and Nihongi It can be confirmed through records related to Baekje and Gaya .[19] The corresponding illustrator is Taiwanese .[20] Many people know that the cheongsam is the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, but the cheongsam is not the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, but rather an improvement by the Han people of the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, 'Qizhuang'.[21] If Han Chinese men were caught wearing Hanfu by the Qing government, they would probably have been executed immediately. At least Confucianists, Taoist monks , and monks wore short hair or shaved their heads and wore Hanfu. Ironically, it is the Manchurian people who have maintained the traditional Hanfu for men, but there are no laws restricting clothing for the Manchurian people, so there is no major problem for Manchurian men wearing Hanfu. In fact, among the portraits of Emperor Qianlong , there is a cosplay painting of him wearing a Han Chinese hanfu . In fact, Manchurian characters that appear in Chinese historical dramas set in the Qing Dynasty are never shown wearing Hanfu.[22] The basic attire in ancient Korea was to wear a robe over the pants and jeogori. It can be said to be a common clothing culture of horseback riding people who still have a nomadic culture.[23] Although the modern Manchu people have almost assimilated into the Han people linguistically and culturally, they are differentiated from the Han people in that brides wear the attire of Qing Dynasty Manchu women as their traditional wedding attire. The Hui people , who are Muslims of Han Chinese descent , also wear their traditional clothing, which is completely different from Hanfu, as traditional wedding attire.[24] The traditional wedding attire of the " Pranakan " group, a group of Chinese who went to Southeast Asia , is very similar to the Aoqun of the Qing Dynasty.[25] Hanbok , on the other hand, is called sangyuhago (上襦下袴) because it means wearing a jeogori on top and pants on the bottom.[26] #[27] #
[2] Many people know that the cheongsam is the traditional clothing of the Manchu people , but the cheongsam is not the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, but rather an improvement by the Han Chinese of the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, 'Qizhuang'.[3] In fact, until the 2000s, the term Hanfu was close to an academic term that even Chinese people rarely used. The general public began using it in the 2010s, so it can almost be considered a new word.[4] In the Sui and Tang dynasties themselves, the leadership of the royal family belonged to the Xianbei people who were assimilated into the Han people, so the Xianbei people's clothing culture had a very great influence on the Chinese clothing culture of the time.[5] In the first place, it is impossible for any ethnic group to have a perfect national culture unless they live in an extremely closed area. The same goes for China.[6] There are many cases of misunderstanding when looking at the current behavior of China and North Korea, but communism treats ideas that promote a specific ethnic group as reactionary and views them as ideas that should disappear. Before Stalin , the Soviet Union did not even have an official language, and this was the reason for reorganizing the national system from the existing Russian unitary system to a union system of several Soviet republics in accordance with Lenin's theory of national liberation. In the early days of the establishment of the People's Republic of China, China also broke down the unitary system of the existing Republic of China period and granted autonomous regions to each ethnic minority, carrying out the national liberation policy described above. It is not for nothing that Juche Idea and New Era Socialism with Chinese Characteristics are treated as pseudo-communism.[7] However, the galabella also has its origins in the Tarkan costume of ancient Egypt , so the modern galabella is not completely unrelated to the ancient Egyptian costume.[8] Many people know that the cheongsam is the traditional costume of the Manchu people , but since the cheongsam is not the traditional costume of the Manchu people, it is an improved version of the Manchurian traditional costume, ' Qizhuang ', so it is not right to say that it is not of the Han people at all.[9] Cheollik, widely known as the attire of noblemen, has a Mongolian name .[10] However, in the case of Qingpu, the Ma Mianqian (马面裙) of the later Mingpu was inherited as is, and had characteristics that were clearly distinct from the Manchurian people.[11] If you look at photos of modern China, you can often see Taoist monks wearing Hanfu from the Ming Dynasty.[12] For example, over time, kimonos have become closer to southern clothing, with sleeves and trousers becoming wider and slits appearing near the shoulders and armpits due to the influence of the hot and humid environment of the Japanese archipelago.[13] King Jo Muryeong ignored the mountain of appeals and pushed for Hobokryeong by taking a hardline policy of dethroning the crown prince who was opposed to Hobokryeong. He was truly a reformer who overturned the common sense of his time.[14] Even during the Spring and Autumn Period , the area around the current Yellow River was a vegetation area similar to a dense forest area. In fact, fossils of rhinos and elephants have been excavated in the area .[15] Above all, the northern peoples invaded and plundered China whenever they had the opportunity, so the Chinese people had strong negative feelings toward the northern peoples.[16] This was the same in the West ( ancient Rome ) during a similar period. In the first place, the simplest form of clothing that humans could make was a skirt, so originally everyone, regardless of gender, wore only skirts, but northern peoples living in cold regions invented pants to withstand the cold and to ride horses. . Pants were introduced to China from the northern equestrian peoples of the Central Plains during the Warring States Period, and to the Latin people , pants were introduced from the Celts during the ancient Roman period. However, in the early days, they were shorts that exposed the calves rather than full long pants. Long pants were introduced from the Germanic tribes in the late Roman period.[17] Until now, the unique costume of hanbok also existed at the same time.[18] Japanese tomb murals and Nihongi It can be confirmed through records related to Baekje and Gaya .[19] The corresponding illustrator is Taiwanese .[20] Many people know that the cheongsam is the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, but the cheongsam is not the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, but rather an improvement by the Han people of the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, 'Qizhuang'.[21] If Han Chinese men were caught wearing Hanfu by the Qing government, they would probably have been executed immediately. At least Confucianists, Taoist monks , and monks wore short hair or shaved their heads and wore Hanfu. Ironically, it is the Manchurian people who have maintained the traditional Hanfu for men, but there are no laws restricting clothing for the Manchurian people, so there is no major problem for Manchurian men wearing Hanfu. In fact, among the portraits of Emperor Qianlong , there is 
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